Make a handle
This first step is very easy. Just attach T-Joint and one end cap into one of the pipes to form a basic handle.
Use Vise for the final tightening. Do not tighten the T -joints and end caps of the pipe using your hands. You just hurt yourself and do not make it tight enough.
Drill holes in the end cap
As shown in the figure, put one of the end caps into vise. Next, make a hole in the cap in the center of the cap. You don’t have to put it in the center completely, but the closer you are, the better. I want to use VISE because I excavate a quarter -inch zinc plating chelch. It is enough to bring a weak drill to the stop, and if you try to hold it, you will definitely do a lot in your hand. Needless to say, it can get hot. Protected eyewears such as safety goggles must always be worn when using electric tools. A little machine oil (or vegetable oil) can help you maintain it and maintain a drillbit.
When the bit comes out on the other side, I like to use slow speed, as grabbing the metal shakes. It is much more comfortable to have a jerk than suddenly jump out of your hand.
Excavation in an area where cleaning is easy. Many metal fragments are produced. And don’t use your finger to wipe off the fragments! They enter your skin. Use a brush or vacuum.
Do this with two endcaps.
Assemble the mounting
Installation requires bolts, two rock washer, flange washer, nuts, wing nuts, and drill end caps. Place the rock washer on the bolt and place it on the end cap. As shown here, it is necessary to exit the bottom of the bolt from the top of the outside part of the end cap. Wear another rock washer and put the nut. Place the end cap on the vise and tighten the nut with the pliers. The rock washer does not rotate the bolt.
You’ll want to make it really tight because the camera can be attached. Not because the camera may fall, but to wear a camera and remove it. When this installation is loosened, the bolt turns like the camera, making it difficult to keep it in a stationary state. If this occurs during shooting, you need to stop and find pliers.
Use a hammer to dip the center of the flange washer. To do this, place the washing machine on a heavy hole, place the bolt’s head in the hole, and hit the bolt. The washing machine distributes power from a single contact point. The larger the washing machine, the better. If you don’t use a washing machine, the camera not only shakes a lot in this connection, but also stresses this small place. If you lose this washing machine, do not use a stabilizer, as it could damage the camera.
Use your finger to tighten the mounting wing nut. Do not use the pliers. You can peel the thread on the camera or break the tripod mount. Both are bad.
Assemble the base
Barbell weight and rock washer, two flange washer, bolts, nuts, and drill end caps are required. They go together in the displayed pattern. The bolt passes two washer sandwiching the weight. Next, paste it on the end cap, put a rock washer, and finally on the nut. The parts are perfect for a letter.
The rock washer deep in the end cap keeps the grip on the nut, so there is no need to paste pliers to turn it. Just turn the cap. Next, paste the cap into a vise, tighten the bolt using a driver, or grasp the weight. The weight should turn the bolt, and VISE does not turn the cap.
I like to tighten the bolt until the outer washing machine starts to turn inside. This reduces the amount of bolts protruding, and the bass is more stable when set down.
If you use the base as a stand (not recommended because it is easy to knockover), you can buy round bolts and small amount of rubber feet. These are better basses that are not wobbly. You can say that I want to do this, and I say it’s easy to knock out from experience. But my camera still works.
Everything is the same now
Finally, take the remaining two pipes, screw it into the handle T -joint, and attach the bass and mounting. And you’re done! You can tighten these parts as much as you want. Give them a good hand or tighten the full-fledged Vise and-Pliers. The only reason not to use Vise and Pliers is whether the stabilizer or swap component can be collapsed. You can change the length of the pipe and the weight of the barbell as you like.
I probably call this combination a “sports model”. This is mainly because the balance point (with camera) is near the T -joint and can rotate quite well with the handle. It is really agile. Longer and heavy weights change handling.
When the stabilizer is stored without attaching the camera, the installation machine is finally protected. It is recommended that you take off the wing nut, wear a washing machine, and then restore the wing nut. It does not get lost in the washing machine.
Manufacturer: Staff experience
A mechanical friend and I spent about 45 minutes to build this camera stabilizer in a sparing garage workshop. It was generally easy and did not hang anywhere.
The most difficult thing was to excavate the hole in the end cap. I used a stationary drill press instead of a handheld drill. Unfortunately, I didn’t do much work to focus on drillbits in the end cap. The hole was straight, but it was not close enough in the middle for my taste.
The second excavation was better because I punched around the end caps and knew where to excavate. However, one thing must be added to the end cap when drilling. Fortunately, only two endcaps with holes are required. If one is ruined, you can use it as a cap below to retry.
The end cap is swelling at the top. I flattened them in the file. I was able to avoid this step and would have been okay, but I thought the flat top would stabilize the camera.
I came up with another way to bend a flange washer. In our method, we have bolts at the center of weight, like sandwiches (the weight of the center, the washer on both sides is held together with bolts). We used this device in a vise to tighten the bolt nuts until the flange washer was appropriately bent. The drawback of this was that both flange washer were bent as well as what they needed. It’s not the end of the world, but if you’re worried that there is a flat flange washer at the bottom, pick up extra things at the store.
I tested using the 5 -pound weight and using the video function of the OLYMPUS D550 camera (weight less than 1 pound). The counter balance was too heavy for my camera, so the video had a lot of cameras. Still, it was better than running with a camera alone. We plan to purchase lighter weight when passing through Sporting Goods Store.
-Robin Outis
Conclusion
Ready. target. Shoot stably.
The side handle is used to stabilize the left and right locking. (Vertical shaking is considerably wet by weight.) You can hold the handle as you want. The way I like to keep it is shown here. How you do it accounts for 80 % of the smoothness. This is true for specialized equipment with flashy shock and hydraulic pressure. Don’t expect this to make a miracle. To create a smooth movement, you need to practice using your arms and body. While you are walking, look at your hands and see how you can maintain them on the ground. Bend your feet and learn how to “slip”. I talked to a person who used a professional camera stabilizer, but he said it was “really good.” Good results are not about equipment, not how to use it. It’s really true for everything.
Change and add -on
The camera stabilizer that can be easily escaped is useful for many useful and simple adaptation and strengthening.
Return the bracket
The bad thing about the stabilizer itself is that it is very difficult to get a ground -level shot (running along the ground while looking up at people). Therefore, you can wrap around the camera and build a slightly reversal bracket that can be attached to the upper stabilizer instead of the bottom. Just turn the entire stabilizer upside down, you are at the top and the camera at the bottom.
Purchase an aluminum bar at the hardware shop, cut it according to the length with a hack sew, excavate holes, and bend using VISE. Make sure that the upper hole is accurately on the bottom hole. Otherwise, make sure that the balance is out of balance. Perform measurements using a ruler. Be careful to explain it as you lose about 1.8 inches in the bend. Also, if you put a hack sewn inside where there is a corner, it is much easier to get a controlled bend.
Alternative weight and pipe length
You can use a 24 -inch length pipe and a 5 -pound weight on the bottom. This combination creates a smooth shot due to vertical movement. The weight of the camera is much more difficult because the weight is heavy and the arm is long. Therefore, if you need more sensitive iLity, use a sports version with all 12 -inch bars and a 2 -pound weight. Having a variety of lengths and weight is why you may not want to tighten everything with pliers. Usually, just holding a good hand is enough to put everything together for a day’s worth. The 24 -inch version is quite tall. You can get a nice ground -level running video using an inverted bracket
Large sled platform
Shows a large platform for adding a large platform to the top of the stabilizer (or can simply turn the mounting nut, not a camera).
Cut the rectangular wood of the same width as the camera base. ½ Purchase the inch flange and replace the mount cap on top. Put the screws in three of the four holes in the flange and put them in the wood platform. Drill the holes of ¼ inches through the platform with the fourth hole of the flange and use it for the mounting bolt. This is a quick and easy way to really strengthen camera support for a larger camera. Unfortunately, you cannot use an inverted bracket in combination with this platform.
Mailbag change
Surprisingly many amateur physicists and certified machinery engineers have written a fairly long email that points out the design and proposal issues. This is a small sample:
suggestion: The weight of the bottom must be exactly the same weight as the camera (see Physics 101, Page 87).
reply: The weight of all cameras is different. The ons or gram accuracy scale is not common, so it is difficult for people to weight the camera. Also, the weights sold in accurate ounce or grams are not easy to get. If you can access these, that’s great! More power to YA. However, the sports store’s 2½LB or 5 -pound barbell weight is close to most people who use consumer -grade cameras. The instability generated by different weights can be rationally overcome by practice.
suggestion: PVC or aluminum bars are better than steel.
reply: You can use the selected materials freely, but the steel piping is strong and is threaded in advance, so I like steel piping. There is no disconnection, adhesive or welding. The camera stabilizer can be collapsed to store the camera stabilizer, and it can be re -assembled within 30 seconds without using the tool.
Special photo Mike Martin. Step photo by Evan McNalie.
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