my YouTube Channel I create things that I’m inspired by, sometimes it’s a new movie, sometimes it’s a video game from 10 years ago. My latest project is one that’s been on the list for quite some time: a set of traditional Samurai armor. As with my other projects, this free pattern is On my site If you want to try making one too.
As a trained prop maker, I’ve worked with a variety of mediums over the years, from clay and resin to 3D modelling and foam. EVA foam is by far my favorite! In the cosplay community, I’m known as a “formsmith”, a foam fabrication expert. EVA is one of the best materials, especially for makers who are new to foamsmithing, because it’s lightweight, inexpensive, and extremely versatile. Once you’ve mastered the fabrication techniques, you can make foam look like skin, wood, rock, bone, and metal.
Leather look
Traditionally, samurai armor was made from iron plates or strips of leather, lacquered to harden the surface and protect it from the elements. To recreate the texture of leather on foam, one of my favorite tricks is to use lacquer. Aluminum foil techniqueEVA foam absorbs heat well, so when pressed while soft, designs and textures become visible on the surface. Different materials and shapes can be pressed into the foam to create a unique look.
Before we get started, let’s talk safety. Always wear appropriate respiratory and eye protection when heating or sanding foam. Lightly heat the surface of the 4mm foam with a heat gun and move the foam back and forth. Be careful not to overheat the foam as this can burn or melt the surface. Once the foam has softened, quickly press a piece of crumpled aluminum foil onto the surface. If desired, you can rotate the ball of aluminum foil to give the embossed pattern a more random look.
Once the foam cools, any texture that was applied to it will remain on the foam. Unless the foam is reheated, it will return to its original shape. Therefore, this is a finishing process that should be done at the end of the build just before adding paint and primer. Once the foam has been sealed with a product such as: PlastiDip, Rosco Flex Bond, Creature Castor Mod PodgeThe texture is locked.
The power of paint
Now we move on to the most important part of prop making: painting. I’ve been in the architectural business for 10 years, but have been drawing for 30 as a classically trained illustrator. Most of my work is hand-painted. After sealing the foam, I usually lightly powder it with a rattle can. Spray paint It acts as a base layer of color, which is especially important if you’re going to have light colors like gray, white, or yellow as your final product.
Next, Thick acrylic It’s applied using wash and dry brush techniques to highlight the detail carved into the form – there’s no point having lots of intricate detail and battle damage if it’s not visible.
A great prop can be ruined by a bad paint job, or a so-so prop can be saved by a great paint job. It’s a good idea to have a reference image while painting to make sure you get the contrast and weathering just right. With this armor, I went a step further and Fuller’s earth powder This is to age the piece and add finer details.
Check out this project and other free projects on my channel and get started on your journey to becoming a foam craftsman!
This article make: Volume 86.
